28 Years - Our takes, Our news
From the archives and on show again instore -
Intellectual Fashion Show 2016
The Divisible Reversible is a battle jacket: confidence for any situation. When zipped together it provides a thick armour, emboldened by its metal zips with two sides. It zips apart into two entirely different jackets: comforting, thick rust cord - a faithful friend, and then glamour, colour and drape to Hip hop and Jazz dance moves. One of Mandatory’s longest running styles, the reversible jacket has been produced in limited edition fabric combinations since it first featured at NZFW in 2004. It is a garment that has got your back.
In March 1959, artist June Black explored ideas of ‘the self’ in an exhibition titled, Intellectual Fashion Show. Bringing together her paintings, ceramic wall sculptures and a provocative commentary she presented the concept of an 'intellectual fashion house’. The aim of its imagined director, M. Henri Folli, was “to dress the mind away from commonplace associations…”.
June framed fashion as an armour to protect the self from the rigours of daily life, social hypocrisy and cultural expectations. And over the course of her life and writing she devised a whole wardrobe of metaphorical costumes.
More than 60 years later, the New Zealand Fashion Museum and Blikfang Gallery are revisiting June’s original ideas with an exhibition at the Gus Fisher Gallery in Auckland. The aim of the Intellectual Fashion Show 2016 is to further advance M. Henri Folli’s most worthy cause, offering participants a platform to experiment with the expressive potential of what we wear to fashion the body and the mind and to explore the rich complexity of the real-self.
The exhibition curators have invited more than 50 fashion designers, milliners, jewellers, visual artists, poets, ceramic artists and other creatives - including established names Liz Findlay, WORLD, Margo Barton, Fran Allison, Peter Madden, Louise Rive, Karen Inderbitzen Waller - to select one of June’s metaphorical costumes and explore the idea of the transformative power of dress.
To imagine what a 'costume to be worn over a heavy heart’ might look like? Or a 'hat for elevated thoughts’? And what makes for a 'costume in which to invite undiluted pleasure’? Or consider these:
- Costume to get onto one’s high horse
- Costume to face the world of the commonplace
- Costume to be worn over a heavy heart
- Costume to flaunt tedious advice and swing off into bright danger
- Costume to joyfully accept the success of others without a sigh
- Costume to extend exalted moments
- Costume to face the ultimate discomfit of the guillotine, the gallows or the dentist
1st September 2025
Fashion Revolution New Zealand
Over the past week, alongside New Zealand Fashion Week, the streets of Auckland CBD have been filled with faces and stories of the talented people behind our clothes. The Meet the Maker campaign was about bringing visibility to local makers, celebrating their craft, their voices, and the value they bring to fashion.
Here’s a look at our billboard that lit up the city 🌆💛 Featuring our very own Manisha Karapkar, Mandatory Workroom Manager.
A huge thank you to all the brands who stood alongside us in making this campaign possible, to Auckland City Library, and to our partners at Whitecliffe for helping bring this vision to life.
Fashion is not just about what we wear, it’s about the hands and hearts behind# every garment.
https://www.instagram.com/fash_rev_newzealand/#
31st July 2025
The card charges. Our reckons.
Moments after being initially stoked to be given paywave, our monthly bank fees shot up, a lot! Paywave was/is charging an extra 1.5% on top of the 3% surcharge for credit card use. It is not a capped fee per transaction, and the percentage model adds a lot to bigger purchases. With pin numbers required for purchases over $200, the wave is just extravagance.
We stopped Paywave for a bit and returned to it over Covid times. We have Paywave but we have actively discouraged use of it. Some people only have their phones to pay with but most others help us in these tight times with bank transfers or eftpos cards (no fees).
In November we expect our bank charges to come down. Using Paywave will make little difference albeit clients will find it easier to use credit cards /phones rather than eftpos. Proportionately more sales will attract these (lower) fees.
We have avoided Amex due to higher fees, we will look into their new rates. Overseas credit cards will still whack us and this may make it prudent to avoid Diners and Amex.
NB. Our bank charges will come down but FYI, our point of sale provider is changing up our contract with a 60% increase to their monthly fees. We are looking into it.
July 18 2025
Mandatory marks the passing of legendary Wellington DJ & founding member of Fat Freddy's Drop.
We are forever grateful for DJ Mu: Amazing gigs across the city, pride for his worldwide acclaim, he also made amazing mixes for our fashion shows. A steady friend: Generous and respectful, so clever, creative and calm. An awesome communicator, a pioneer, leader.
We will miss you Mu, and today we are playing your playlists here, on the ground floor of your legendary Ghuznee warehouse space. Site of many incredible music gatherings and sessions that grew into the big deal that you are and you made.
Moi mai rā e hoa, Chris Faiumu.
Photo credit: Boondigga official video release. Mu's Shirt by Mandatory
The Mandatory story at NZ's Fashion Museum.
A great write up we had forgotten about.
June 15 2022
Mandatory turns 25 today.
We are thrilled to have been making things Mandatory for 25 years. The steady method: carefully managing good materials to make covetable pieces - that the crew loves to work with and the clients love to wear, continues to be rewarding and exciting.
We especially prize the amazing relationships that have developed and endured. We thank you here:
The Crew; We're a talented family in this amazing work environment that we've worked together to create. Fantastic people have worked with us and given a lot to Mandatory.
So many people gave time and assistance over the years. All those shows, a few moves, shoots, schemes and themes: Big love to Nektar films, DJs many, models, photographers, crews, family, and friends.
Clients - loyal and encouraging. It is wonderful to be respected for our practice while meeting people doing all manner of cool and important things. Thank you for the friendships too.
Our Peers - hard times again! Small businesses; NZ-made, conscious fashion, comrades of Cuba - Kia Kaha! Theatre, music, arts, and beloved hospo - we see your māhi, we are in awe, it is clearly super tough. Thank you all for the work and care you have put our way over the past 25 years.
